A coalition of Alaskan fishermen, Alaska natives, and conservation groups are coming together this week at the Seattle Fish Expo to urge President-elect Barack Obama to re-establish protection of the fishing waters in Bristol Bay and parts of the Bering Sea. These waters account for over 40% of the U.S. national seafood harvest, a $2 billion fishing industry, and are rich with a number of commercially important species, including halibut, pollock, cod, flatfish, herring, king crab, and the world’s largest sockeye salmon run.

These fishing grounds had long been protected – until 2007, when the Bush administration lifted the ban on offshore oil leasing. The Minerals Management Service (MMS) has scheduled a lease sale in these waters for 2011, even though the National Marine Fisheries Service (NMFS) has warned against it, fearing destruction of natural habitat and subsequent damage to regional economies. The sale is opposed by a number of diverse groups, including the Alaska Marine Conservation Council and the World Wildlife Fund. Others cite the infamously bad weather as an argument against drilling, suggesting that the operations would be too dangerous for employees and too unstable for safe oil containment purposes. The MMS has refused a public forum on the topic. Meanwhile, the Alaska Independent Fishermen’s Marketing Association (AIFMA) and others continue to fight for the reinstatement of the protection of the region.

Tighter budgets can still produce wonderful seafood meals.  This preparation is relatively simple and quick, and can make use of leftovers: Friday night’s mashed potatoes and broiled salmon find new life in these savory cakes.  They can stand alone as an entree, or make great appetizers for group get-togethers.  They can be made ahead of time and reheated.  The original recipe appeared in the New York Times; I have adapted it and added some healthier touches and kick.

You will need:

• 3 bunches fresh spinach or other greens (if you use a robust winter green like kale or chard, remove the stems and thicker ribs)
• 4 cloves garlic, smashed and chopped
• 2 c leftover mashed potatoes
• 8 oz. cooked wild Alaskan salmon, flaked
• 4 eggs, beaten
• 2 tsp salt
• several cranks of freshly ground pepper
• ¾ c flour
• 2 ½ c panko bread crumbs
• ½  onion, finely chopped
• a few healthy shakes of ground cayenne
• olive oil

For the sauce, you will need:

• 4 or 5 cloves garlic, crushed
• 1 c sour cream or Greek yogurt
• a handful of fresh dill, minced
• pinch of nutmeg
• a few dashes of Worcestershire sauce
• zest of one lemon
• salt and pepper to taste
• lemon wedges (as garnish)

1.  Wash and coarsely chop the spinach.  Sautee the spinach, onions and garlic together until the spinach is completely wilted and the onions are translucent and golden.  Set the mixture aside to cool.

2.  In a large bowl, combine the potatoes, flaked salmon, 1 cup of the panko crumbs, 2 beaten eggs, salt, pepper, and cayenne.

3.  Squeeze as much liquid as you can out of the spinach.  Let it rest a moment and then squeeze it again.  Add the spinach to the potato-fish mixture and mix well.  Use your hands to make sure it’s evenly combined and there are no fish bones or potato lumps.

4.  Set up an assembly line: line up three wide bowls, and put the remaining panko crumbs in one, the rest of the eggs in the middle one, and the flour in the other.

5.  Form the salmon mixture into small patties, around 3 inches wide and ¾ inch thick.

6.  Drop each patty in the flour, coating it thoroughly.  Then, dip it in the eggs.  Finally, dredge it through the panko crumbs so that it is completely covered.  Reform and set the finished patties aside on a baking sheet, covering them with plastic wrap or a damp towel.  Let them rest in the refrigerator for 30 minutes to 4 hours.

7.  In the meantime, make the dill cream by combining the yogurt or sour cream with the rest of the ingredients.  Be sure to taste it and adjust the seasonings; you may want to add a small splash of vinegar or a pinch of sugar, depending on the acidity of the yogurt or sour cream.

8.  To cook the cakes, cover the bottom of a heavy skillet with olive oil and heat it to medium-high.  Cook the cakes in batches, turning them once to brown them evenly.  Drain them on paper towels or newspaper and keep them in a warm oven as you cook the rest.  Serve hot with the dill cream and wedges of lemon.

Fried rice is one of those dishes that you can keep at the back of your mind and make on a few minutes’ notice with just about anything you have in your fridge.  There are a few staple ingredients that I try never to go without - eggs, for instance, or fresh ginger and scallions - but experimentation should lead to great results, as long as the rice is fresh and you have a few spices on hand to make it interesting.  Note that there is no soy sauce in this.  In China, fried rice is made with salt, not soy, as many American cooks like to do it.  Soy makes the rice soggy, and it often burns in the pan; salt has the same seasoning effect yet allows the rice to stay firm and the other flavors to combine.  

This recipe works with almost any seafood: crab, shrimp, and scallops are all great additions.  I like the smoked salmon because it allows you to use as little or as much as you have on hand and still get really big flavors out of the fish and the rest of the ingredients.  This will serve three or four; it’s quick and simple enough to make for one - reduce amounts accordingly.

You will need:

• 3-4 cups leftover rice 
• 6 oz. (or more) good quality smoked salmon
• 1/2 medium onion, finely chopped
• 5-6 cloves garlic, peeled, smashed, and chopped - big chunks are nice
• 1/2 red bell pepper, julienned
• 2 cups shredded hearty greens, such as kale, chard, or bok choy
• 1 inch fresh ginger, peeled and minced
• 4 or 5 scallions, cut into inch-long diagonals
• 1 cup frozen peas (optional)
• 2 eggs, beaten
• allspice
• nutmeg
• cumin
• ground chilies or chili flakes
• seasoned rice vinegar
• toasted sesame oil
• olive oil
• salt

Sometimes the most interesting creations are accidents.  This recipe is not the one I intended to write, and yet it is now one of my favorites, a discovery I made thanks to the uniform bags I buy bulk goods in, and the remarkable resemblance of flour to powdered sugar.  I was in a hurry, things got mixed up, and…voila! A new fish preparation is revealed.  The combination of sweet and savory is found in nearly all world cuisines, and yet gives unexpected depth to this dish.  If you’re not feeling adventurous, go ahead and use flour like I had originally intended.  If you’re up for something new (and wonderful), follow this recipe.

You will need:

• 1 lb. (fresh or thawed) skinless, boneless white fish - halibut or cod are both excellent
• a handful of powdered sugar
• 2 lemons, one zested
• 5 cloves of garlic, sliced
• 2 cups strong vegetable broth
• 1/2 cup coarsely chopped Greek olives; kalamatas or mixed green olives are good
• salt, pepper, and cayenne
• olive oil

The winter holidays are a great time for preserving old traditions and starting new ones. Whether your Thanksgiving table is spread with a motley assortment of potluck dishes brought by friends, a gleaming feast catered by the chef of the house, or a homespun affair full of memory and warmth, this stuffing recipe is a classic addition. I like to make it a day ahead (leaving out the oysters) so I can enjoy the smells of sage and almonds and then let the mingle before dressing the turkey. I lightly sautee the oysters just before I put it into the bird. This makes enough to stuff a medium turkey (12-14 lbs.) and still have plenty left over for a side dish on the table.

You will need:

• 1 lb bread – crusts on, cut or torn into bite-sized pieces. I like to use a combination of black rye and sourdough, but anything will do. Whole wheat can sometimes be a little heavy or become doughy.
• 1 cup cooked wild rice
• 1 pt. medium or small raw oysters – rinsed, with the liquor reserved and set aside.
• 3 or 4 ribs of celery, chopped
• 1 large yellow onion, chopped
• 2 cups coarsely chopped mushrooms: button, crimini, oyster, shiitake, portabello, and chantrelle are all great; I don’t like to use dried mushrooms, but dried morels are nice if you have them.
• 1 cup sliced raw almonds, dry-toasted in a skillet and set aside
• ½ cup chopped dried fruit, such as raisins, cherries, currants, dates, or any combination thereof
• 4-6 cloves fresh garlic, coarsely chopped
• 1 cup or more of chicken or vegetable stock
• Fresh or dried herbs – I use more than a tablespoon of each (except cloves, cayenne, and rosemary – go lightly), but adjust according to your own tastes:
  • sage
  • parsley
  • nutmeg
  • cloves
  • thyme
  • rosemary
  • salt
  • pepper
  • cayenne

1. Spread the bread cubes out on a baking sheet and toast them in the oven, sprinkled with some of the herbs, plus a little salt and olive oil. Let them get good and dry, but not burnt.

2. Sautee the onions, garlic, mushrooms, and celery in a large frying pan. Add the dried fruit and almonds, and cook until the fruit is softened.

3.  In a large bowl, combine the bread cubes, vegetable mixture, rice, and herbs.  Toss everything together until it’s well mixed, and moisten with broth.  Adjust the seasonings according to taste.

4.  If you’re going to stuff the bird immediately, add the raw oysters to the mix and moisten with both the broth and the liquor left over from the oysters.  If you’re going to wait, leave the oysters until you’re ready to do the stuffing.  If the stuffing is only a side dish, spread it out in a casserole and bake at 350 degrees for 20 minutes or so, until hot all the way through.

This salad makes a great appetizer for dinner parties or holiday meals.  The flavors are bright and tangy, and it’s both quick to make and very beautiful.  Be sure to use Belgian endive leaves that have a lot of magenta to them for the strongest visual effect.  I have adapted this recipe somewhat; the original comes from a thoughtful cookbook on healthy eating in which all of the dishes are organized according to color.  This was listed under the “Autumn” section of “Purple and blue,” along with recipes involving purple cabbage, capsicum, figs, grapes, currants, and eggplant.  This serves four.

You will need:

• 2 heads purple-tipped Belgian endive, leaves removed and rinsed
• 4 tsp rice wine vinegar
• 1 lb. fresh or thawed lump crabmeat
• 1 T minced fresh tarragon
• 2 T olive oil
• 1 T mayonnaise
• 2 tsp chopped capers
• Tabasco sauce
• Worcestershire sauce
• 1 T lemon juice
• salt and freshly ground black pepper

1.  Chill four salad plates.  Arrange three or four endive leaves on each plate.  Coarsely chop the rest of the leaves and toss them into loose beds atop the arrangements.

2.  Combine the rest of the ingredients in a bowl and season to taste – 2 or more healthy shakes of Tabasco, and a single shake of Worcestershire ought to be enough.  Some measure hot sauce by the drop; I like to overdo it.  Only mix until well combined – too much handling can make the crabmeat mushy.

3.  Divide the crab mixture equally between the plates and mound it up on the piles of endive.  Crack some more pepper over the top, or sprinkle with paprika and more lemon juice. 

Serve immediately.  This pairs well with hot crusty bread and olive oil for dipping, and with minerally white wines, such as some Pinot Grigios.  Follow up with warmer fare, like soup with dumplings or mushroom ragout and polenta.

Scallops are the ravioli of seafood: two-bite sized, and deceptively rich.  These are so good, you’ll want to keep eating well past full.  This preparation is very quick, so be sure your sides are ready before you start.  Garlic mashed potatoes and steamed asparagus with lemon are a nice addition, as is plain white rice seasoned with lemon zest and a roasted beet salad.

You will need:

• 4-6 large sea scallops per person, fresh or thawed
• ½ cup balsamic vinegar
• 2 T honey or 1 T brown sugar
• olive oil
• a handful of flour
• salt and pepper
• lemon wedges

1.  In a heavy skillet, combine the vinegar, honey, and a healthy splash of olive oil.  Whisk it together so that the honey is completely combined, and then allow it to thicken over medium heat, stirring frequently.  The sauce should become very fragrant.  Once it’s thickened, pour the sauce off into a bowl and set it aside.

2.  Rinse the scallops under cold running water, then dust them with salt.  Pour the flour onto a plate and lightly coat the scallops with the flour.

3.  Add a splash of olive oil to the pan that you cooked the sauce in, and let it heat up.

4.  Toss the scallops into the skillet and sautee until brown on the edges – not too long, or they’ll become rubbery.  They should be hot clean through, but still tender and moist, and should cut easily in half with a fork.

5.  Serve the scallops onto plates immediately, and drizzle with the balsamic glaze.  Squeeze a wedge of lemon over each serving, and grind fresh black pepper over the top.  Serve any leftover sauce on the side to pour over potatoes or rice.

A great photo.

Recent labeling laws, called COOL (country-of-origin labels), require grocery stores and other seafood outlets to clearly inform shoppers where their fish comes from. China? Thailand? U.S. waters? Wild or farmed? A new generation of savvy seafood shoppers is learning to ask questions about the origins of fish, and to make educated decisions about their purchases.

Along with the usual questions of freshness, preparation, and taste, common consumer concerns include:

• Is the fish from wild waters, or was it farmed or hatchery-raised?
• Was the fish harvested through sustainable fishing practices?
• What kind of mercury and other toxin levels can be expected in the fish?
• What is the total carbon footprint of this purchase?

Unfortunately, several lax elements to the new laws allow for a number of exceptions. Any kind of processing, for example, renders the seafood exempt from the label requirement. While processing can be as complex as cooking, canning, and combining with other meats or additives, the definition extends to include “processes” as simple as, say, shucking an oyster, or sliding a shrimp onto a bamboo skewer.

One way consumers can ensure they know the origins of their fish is to go straight to the source and buy directly from liaisons with processors that package their product directly after it’s caught. This guarantees a clear label with no mysterious additives or processes – just fresh (or fresh-frozen) quality seafood.

Photos by Gianni Cipriano, The New York Times

Fresh or frozen, ahi tuna is one of the most wonderful, flavorful seafoods out there. It’s the closest thing to red meat the sea provides, and is dense enough to be served in small portions. The less you do with it, the better, so here is a preparation that allows for a lot of complex flavors without overpowering the beauty of the fish itself.

The pasta sauce is robust and aromatic; it showcases the freshness of the ingredients and the balance of earthy and acidic tastes.

For the pasta, you will need:

• one package of good quality rigatoni
• a small onion, finely chopped
• 6 cloves fresh garlic, coarsely chopped
• 4 large portabello mushroom caps, cut into bite-sized chunks
• one box sugar plum tomatoes (cherry tomatoes work just as well), rinsed and halved
• vegetable bouillon – I use 1 cube of a tasty organic brand - the crumblier, the better, for this purpose; liquid broth works great, if you have it
• salt, pepper, thyme, and basil to taste
• olive oil
• red wine on hand
• capers

For the fish, you will need:

• 2 nice fillets of ahi tuna, thawed or fresh, rinsed
• lots of cracked black pepper

1. Put on a large pot of water to boil; salt it generously.

2. In a large saucepan or deep wok, heat the olive oil and toss in the onions and garlic; sautee until golden, stirring frequently. Add the thyme and basil.

3. Add the mushrooms and tomatoes to the mix, and cook until the tomatoes soften into sauce, and the mushrooms release their juices.

4. Crumble the bouillon cube over the vegetables and add a cup or more of water, to thin the sauce to the right consistency. Add salt and pepper to taste; adjust the seasonings, and add more herbs if necessary.

5. Add the rigatoni to the water and let it cook according to the directions on the package or your own pasta secret.

6. Allow the sauce to simmer; if needed, thin with a few splashes of red wine. This will lend richness and depth to the sauce.

7. Pull out a small plate and grind freshly cracked pepper all over it, to cover the surface.

8. Dust the ahi fillets in salt and then press them into the pepper, turning them to cover each side.

9. In a heavy, hot skillet, sear the tuna in a little olive oil; when you can see the color beginning to change through the steak, turn the fillets and splash the pan with red wine, and let the fish simmer. The wine will thicken into a glaze. Turn the fish again and dredge it in the sauce. Remove from heat.

10. Strain the pasta and drizzle with olive oil (and dried or minced fresh parsley, if you have some on hand.)

11. Add a handful of capers to the sauce and mix well. Taste. If the sauce is too astringent, add a spoonful of brown sugar. If you like it spicy, add sriracha or other low-vinegar hot sauce.

12. Combine the noodles with the sauce and pour into a large serving platter.

13. Cut the tuna with the grain into thick slices, and fan them across the top of the pasta. They should be seared and dark on the outside, and still pink on the inside.

Serve with grated pecorino romano, warm bread, a crisp green salad, and the rest of the red wine. Delicious!

Not every food from the sea has tentacles, shells, or fins.  Even vegetarians can benefit from sustainable ocean harvest. Seaweed, or marine alga, is found all over the world, and has fed humankind for millennia.   Of the thousands of species of seaweed that are known to exist, at least 110 of them are edible, and none is known to be poisonous.  Marine algae are one of the richest plant-based sources of calcium, and excellent sources of iodine; different varieties also contain mineral nutrients such as potassium, magnesium, sodium, phosphorus, iron, zinc, selenium, and others, as well as high levels of protein in some, e.g. spirulina.

Here’s a quick picture quiz - identify these common species!  (Answers at the bottom).

The American diet has received most of its culinary seaweed culture from Japan, Korea, and China, where seaweed cultivation operations are major industries.  While most Americans are familiar with wrapping sushi rolls in brittle sheets of nori, not everyone is aware that many desserts and gels use agar agar as a vegetarian gelatin substitute.  Agars have the advantage of being able to solidify while warm, and don’t require refrigeration in order to set.

If you’re curious about seaweed foods but not quite ready to take the leap to eating a salad of something that looks like it washed up on the beach, try kelp pickles first.  They’re just as zingy and tasty as those made from cucumbers or other more familiar garden vegetables grown in dirt.  They’re also just as simple to make.  

Kelp Pickles

You will need:

• 5 quarts bull kelp
• 2 cups onions, thinly sliced
• 5 cups vinegar
• 5 cups sugar
• 1 1/2 tsp turmeric
• 1 tsp ground cloves
• 1 tsp celery seeds
• 2 tsps mustard seeds